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Post by audioslave on Jan 28, 2005 13:28:22 GMT 7
also got circular bubble level at ACE Hardware for php 160. saang branch ng ACE Hardware?
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Post by dracula on Jan 28, 2005 18:31:42 GMT 7
if a record has been warped is it still ok to use it?
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Post by stereophile on Jan 29, 2005 1:26:51 GMT 7
if a record has been warped is it still ok to use it? As long as your cart/tonearm can track it, I suppose it's fine. If the undulations are so bad (pretzel) wherein it doesn't track or a sudden THUD is heard when the cart/tonearm drops into the depression/valley, stop using this LP UNLESS...you have something like the VPI OUTER RING. It's a steel outer ring weight w/c you apply to the platter after the LP is mounted. It grabs the edge of your warped LP, holding it down onto the platter. I'm not sure this works with other ttables (Now you know why MSM got a VPI ttable). Besides, it costs $500!
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s2kov
Critical Listener
Posts: 353
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Post by s2kov on Jan 29, 2005 9:32:22 GMT 7
Megamall saang branch ng ACE Hardware?
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Post by stereophile on Jan 29, 2005 11:17:25 GMT 7
Just came from True Value PowerPlant. Got a bubble level (JOHNSON Brand U.S.) for P128 (I'm always misplacing or losing these). Now this is CHEAP! Check it out guys! There's still a couple over there.
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Post by iceman90a on Jan 30, 2005 15:57:44 GMT 7
i was able to get the same brand from true value at alabang town center also bit the bullet and got a zerodust stylus cleaner ;D
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Post by audioboy on Jan 30, 2005 16:34:05 GMT 7
ice, got one too today. thanks for telling me where to get one. i have a big problem though with what i got, it is not accurate. after setting my TT to a correct level and putting back the bulls eye to confirm consistency, wala na naman sa tamang level. i tried to move the bubble slowly in circular motion pero sumasama sa ikot yung bubble.
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Post by m_shoe_maker on Jan 31, 2005 7:18:40 GMT 7
...you have something like the VPI OUTER RING. It's a steel outer ring weight w/c you apply to the platter after the LP is mounted. It grabs the edge of your warped LP, holding it down onto the platter. VPI and Clearaudio has this thingy. Although it does help in clamping down the outer edge of an LP, another purpose of this thingy is to give additional weight / inertia for the spinning platter. If I was to again have an analogy on cars, this outer ring is like the car engine's flywheel. With the heavy flywheel, the car engine idles smoother. Some racers lighten their flywheels in order for the engine to rev faster (we don't need this acceleration for turntables). The downside to lightening a car's flywheel is that the engine idles lumpy. Yes, I have tried this before. One of the requirements of a good table is to have a super stable platter speed. That is one of the reasons why hi-end tables have huge platters -> more weight -> more rotational inertial -> better rotational stability. With the outer ring thingy, being made of solid stainless steel, this thing is very heavy -> additional inertia. Because of its weight, it is not recommended to be used on all turntables. Tables with soft supsensions will bottom out. Tables with weak motors, will have a hard time spinning the platter / ring combination upon start up.
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Post by stereophile on Feb 1, 2005 1:51:18 GMT 7
At the cost of $500. Most of us mortals will just look for an unwarped copy of the LP...or dare I say CD version. There is another way around this problem. There is a device called the AIR TIGHT DISC FLATTER $1699. This is a LP press w/c heats the warped LP (center & outer edge). Two hrs to heat and another two to cool. Works like MAGIC...goodbye vinyl PRETZELS! ;D This is a blessing, especially if you can't find another copy of the LP nor want to upgrade turntables... ;D
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narayan
Audionut
I am a peaceful soul
Posts: 234
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Post by narayan on Feb 17, 2005 21:00:07 GMT 7
my problem is this:
i've got a vintage elac miracord turntable which was swapped to me. i had the rca connectors replaced as the stock connectors were in really bad shape. i did not see any ground wire and now there is a loud hum even though the turntable is not playing.
1.is the absence of a ground wire the source of the hum? 2.do all turntables have ground wires to be connected to the amp? my previous luxman table has one. 3.where should i have a wire soldered should i need one?
thanks for your help
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Post by zetroce on Feb 17, 2005 21:25:44 GMT 7
my problem is this: i've got a vintage elac miracord turntable which was swapped to me. i had the rca connectors replaced as the stock connectors were in really bad shape. i did not see any ground wire and now there is a loud hum even though the turntable is not playing. 1.is the absence of a ground wire the source of the hum? 2.do all turntables have ground wires to be connected to the amp? my previous luxman table has one. 3.where should i have a wire soldered should i need one? thanks for your help Hi Obet, With my Project, the ground wire is screwed to the arm, near the cartridge mount. Sa Luxman, i think it is internal, but grounded to the arm as well. With both TTs, may hum nga if you remove the ground wire. Hope this helps.
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narayan
Audionut
I am a peaceful soul
Posts: 234
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Post by narayan on Feb 19, 2005 9:25:54 GMT 7
thanks dong. may have to bring this thing to a doctor to be sure. sayang eh, other than the hum, unit is working flawlessly
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Post by rossifumi46 on Mar 15, 2005 2:32:09 GMT 7
where can i buy synthetic oil for my thorens td 295 mk iv? ang bagal ng ikot eh... parang kulang sa lubrication... where can i buy? tnx... im a newbie in TT
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Post by kimpao on Mar 15, 2005 12:07:12 GMT 7
where can i buy synthetic oil for my thorens td 295 mk iv? ang bagal ng ikot eh... parang kulang sa lubrication... where can i buy? tnx... im a newbie in TT Mobil 1 sa mga auto supply, 480/liter. Pre, baka naman yung belt gastado na.
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Post by sandawa on Apr 23, 2005 6:39:29 GMT 7
i don't know if this was already done but i wanted to post this a long time ago. starters should always consult the manuals of their TTs, cartridges, etc. if the unit was bought used without user's and service manuals, there's a good chance such materials are available free for download on this site: www.vinylengine.com/library.shtml
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Post by garp on May 4, 2005 12:19:14 GMT 7
Question lang...maybe somehone's encountered this problem.
What's the effect of having a counterweight that's too heavy? I want to install a cartridge that's a bit too heavy for the counterweight to balance the arm. Its easy to add weight but I think you can't go overboard. What's the optimal weight I should to the counterweight (am thinking of washers here)? Arm is low mass, cartridge moderate compliance.
Anybody? I've been unable to find answers on the internet. Thanks.
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Post by iceman90a on May 4, 2005 13:15:59 GMT 7
die hards will say that adding just any kind of counter weight will affect the resonance of the tone arm and consequently the sound of your table....
try it first though, if you're not satisfied then you can look for after-market branded counterweights
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Post by sandawa on May 4, 2005 14:14:08 GMT 7
Question lang...maybe somehone's encountered this problem. What's the effect of having a counterweight that's too heavy? I want to install a cartridge that's a bit too heavy for the counterweight to balance the arm. Its easy to add weight but I think you can't go overboard. What's the optimal weight I should to the counterweight (am thinking of washers here)? Arm is low mass, cartridge moderate compliance. Anybody? I've been unable to find answers on the internet. Thanks. your post reminds me of the days when headshells of TTs in record bars had a 10-centavo coin taped on top to add weight since new cartridges sold during that time had become smaller and lighter. nakakatawa but that assures them of good stylus-groove contact. mas maganda ang tunog pag maganda ang contact. pero, para kang nag-aararo ng record grooves, you'll find black residues of vinyl on your stylus after every play - this is also the case against using spherical styli models, including M44-7 and those produced for DJs. too light, or heavy, cartridge contact (adjusted thru the counterweight) would damage the record. heavy contact also shortens the lifespan of the stylus. that's the reason why, the recommended value range in the cartridge manuals should be followed. if the stylus is pressed hard against the groove, kinakaskas ang vinyl eventually losing the original groove that contained the music recorded. if stylus's contact on the groove is too light, the possibility of skate/slide is high and that results in new cuts to the groove resulting in irreversible damage to the record. i remember old timers using washers (take note of the weight) on their new TTs with low-mass tonearms to balance an old heavy cartridge. this is because most low-mass tonearms have a maximum of 3 grams adjustment only while the old cartridges (and DJ cartridges) have recommended force of up to 5 grams. sometimes that means 'oido' or gut feel with respect to balance and you just have to trust your judgment. that requires trial and error: if there's no vinyl residue on the stylus tip using a magnifier and tonearm would not jump or slide.
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Post by iceman90a on May 9, 2005 19:39:16 GMT 7
just wanted to share my experience in setting up: 1. Levelling the platter / table - using a bubble level, i found out that my plinth was not perfectly flat, neither was my platter. so i figured i would use the level at the center of the spindle this way i know my platter is level as it spins - place an lp on the mat - place the 45 rpm adaptor on top - place the bubble level on top of the adaptor - adjust footing so the table is level btw - may ok na bubble level sa Ace hardware, Target ang tatak - mas sensitive sya kaysa sa Bullseye brand na nabili ko dati2. Adjusting tracking force - mas accurate yung Shure stylus gauge kasi pwede mo i set desired weight - since wala ako nun, ok na din yung Clearaudio na gauge, for setting to 1.8g - sineset ko sa 2.0 using the gauge, tapos pipihitin ko yung marker to go to 2.0 - then pipihitin ko yung counterweight kasama yung marker until it says 1.8 3. Anti-skate - usually blank LP ang gamit para ma set ito, pero since wala ako nun... gumawa ako ng Digital Anti skate gauge ;D also known as a Laser disc - sakto kapal at laki nya, i sesentro mo nga lang muna ;D pictures hosted by imageshack
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Post by garp on May 9, 2005 21:32:54 GMT 7
your post reminds me of the days when headshells of TTs in record bars had a 10-centavo coin taped on top to add weight since new cartridges sold during that time had become smaller and lighter. nakakatawa but that assures them of good stylus-groove contact. mas maganda ang tunog pag maganda ang contact. pero, para kang nag-aararo ng record grooves, you'll find black residues of vinyl on your stylus after every play - this is also the case against using spherical styli models, including M44-7 and those produced for DJs. too light, or heavy, cartridge contact (adjusted thru the counterweight) would damage the record. heavy contact also shortens the lifespan of the stylus. that's the reason why, the recommended value range in the cartridge manuals should be followed. if the stylus is pressed hard against the groove, kinakaskas ang vinyl eventually losing the original groove that contained the music recorded. if stylus's contact on the groove is too light, the possibility of skate/slide is high and that results in new cuts to the groove resulting in irreversible damage to the record. i remember old timers using washers (take note of the weight) on their new TTs with low-mass tonearms to balance an old heavy cartridge. this is because most low-mass tonearms have a maximum of 3 grams adjustment only while the old cartridges (and DJ cartridges) have recommended force of up to 5 grams. sometimes that means 'oido' or gut feel with respect to balance and you just have to trust your judgment. that requires trial and error: if there's no vinyl residue on the stylus tip using a magnifier and tonearm would not jump or slide. Sandawa, Thank you for sharing. But it doesn't answer my question ;D ;D ;D. My scenario kasi is I'm using a new catridge whose weight is the upper limit of what the counterweight can handle---so this means that to be able to balance the arm, the counterweight will have to be positioned far from the arm pivot and near or on the edge of the end stub. I read this in itself creates some problems. Now I can balance the arm using the supplied counterweight and its right on the edge of the end stub. So far so good. I do the VTF. Still ok. I close the cover and the back wall touches the edge of the counterweight and pushes it back in towards the arm pivot. Not so good because now I have to adjust the VTF again. Easy solution--don't put the cover back on. Problem is I need that cover. Ok so I need to add weight to the counterweight so that its not on the edge of the stub. Question is, how much weight is optimal? Iceman90 mentioned that adding anything at all creates resonance problems. I know I can just experiment and play this by ear but would want to know if there is some sort of rule of thumb applicable here. But thanks again for your previous inputs.
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