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Post by m_shoe_maker on Jan 27, 2005 11:47:04 GMT 7
Like a car enthusiast, an analog enthusiast should likewise invest on tools to care for his/her baby. Here are some of the basics: 1. Bubble Level 2. Alignment Grid 3. Tracking Force Guage 4. Strobe Disc 5. Blank Record 6. Flashlight 7. Magnifying Glass 8. Small Brushes 9. Small Screw Drivers / Hex (Allen) wrenches 10. Stylus Brushes 11. Liquid Stylus Cleaner 12. Anti-Static Brush 13. Record Cleaning Machine 14. Cartridge Pin Tweezers
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Post by iceman90a on Jan 27, 2005 11:49:39 GMT 7
Alright! now we're learning btw - what does an alignment grid look like? what is it for?
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Post by m_shoe_maker on Jan 27, 2005 12:11:45 GMT 7
Alright! now we're learning btw - what does an alignment grid look like? what is it for? Its used to aid the analog addict in getting the optimum alignment of the cartridge, when installing it in the tonearm. This can be a simple piece of paper / cardboard which should cost close to nothing. Sometimes this is even given for free when you buy a tonearm. For the more addicted analog lover, more elaborate grids made of hard plastic or aluminum are available. These more upscale models normally employ a ruler, which is used to get the distance between the platter's spindle, to the tonearms pivot point. These gadgets range from $50 to $150.
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Post by kimpao on Jan 27, 2005 12:39:17 GMT 7
Alright! now we're learning btw - what does an alignment grid look like? what is it for? Project Alignment Protractor Protractor MD Garrott Brothers DB Systems Clearaudio which one is more acurate?
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Post by m_shoe_maker on Jan 27, 2005 12:44:07 GMT 7
which one is more acurate? A million dollar question. That depends on who you talk to. ;D
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Post by m_shoe_maker on Jan 27, 2005 12:51:16 GMT 7
At present, I have 3 alignment grids. All give out different readings. But the difference is very small. But then again, in analog, a millimeter is already huge. As to installing an analog rig, I first do the basics (theoretical text book adjustments using the basic tools). After that, the art of tuning comes in. This is where the fun, and madness starts.
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Post by kimpao on Jan 27, 2005 12:54:10 GMT 7
how about test records? especially the ones for anti-skating?
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Post by m_shoe_maker on Jan 27, 2005 13:02:01 GMT 7
how about test records? especially the ones for anti-skating? A blank record is the best tool for adjusting anti-skating. However, this is quite hard to procure. An LP which has a thick blank space in the inner part (near the record label) can be used check for anti-skating. 12-inch 45rpm singles normally have big spaces near the record label. Just make sure the LP is flat, and not warped.
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Post by stereophile on Jan 27, 2005 22:55:06 GMT 7
MSM- Great thread, bro! What can I say. The guy is spewing out words of wisdom(madness? ;D) for all of us. It may seem difficult/confusing setting up a ttable at first, but once you've seen it done properly: practice, practice, practice...after awhile it will be second nature. A true analog nut will slowly invest in the above mentioned tools to reap the sonic benefits only a well set-up rig can dish out.
But I agree, the blank record is the most difficult item to procure...and the record cleaning machine probably the most expensive in the list(but a must long-term)
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Post by jetok on Jan 29, 2005 18:18:54 GMT 7
i have a long way to go coz i only have items 1,6,7,8,and 9.
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Post by bayonic on Jan 29, 2005 18:31:09 GMT 7
very informative thread...
some questions : 1. shouldn't a good test LP already include a blank track for the anti-skating test?
2.where exactly do I place the bubble level when adjusting ?
tia
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Post by m_shoe_maker on Jan 29, 2005 21:55:23 GMT 7
very informative thread... some questions : 1. shouldn't a good test LP already include a blank track for the anti-skating test? 2.where exactly do I place the bubble level when adjusting ? tia 1. Yes, but some test LPs do not have a blank space to test anti-skating. 2. The first thing to do when setting-up an analog front-end is to have a stable, and level base / turntable stand. Use the bubble level to level your stand. After doing this, place the turntable on top the leveled stand. You now have to use again the bubble level, and place it on top of the platter. This is especially true for suspended tables. If the platter is not level despite the turntable stand being level already, you now have to adjust the suspension. It is a must that your platter is level in order for the cartridge to track the LP in its most efficient way.
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Post by audioslave on Jan 29, 2005 22:59:52 GMT 7
you mentioned about suspended tables and what i have in mind are those VPIs and higher models of Pro-ject TTs or even Garrard and Thorens TTs. what about hard or rigid decks like the Rega and Goldring which is more susceptible to the effects of vibration and more critical in terms of placement, are they easier or more difficult to tweak compared to suspended decks? what could be the drawback of these rigid decks since i know they are much cheaper than suspended tables?
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Post by m_shoe_maker on Jan 30, 2005 16:06:41 GMT 7
Ahhh, suspended decks, and decks with no suspension. Manufacturers have their respective reasons why they use a particular method. The suspension on a turntable is supposed to compensate for the less than perfect turntable stand / environment where the turntable is intended to be placed. The suspension, is there to eat the vibration from the floor, in order for the resonance not to be picked up by the stylus. However, there is an argument here by the non-suspended manufacturers. Their take on this is that the turntable must not compensate for anything - less parts, means less problems (the suspension itself has resonance). To start with, the turntable stand should be very RIGID. If you have to resort to a wall mount stand, do so. To make an analogy on cars, think of F1. Is it advisable to put soft / supple suspension on an F1 car? No! What they do is make a very good track for these almost no suspension hi-performance machines. Which is harder to tweak? I'd say the deck with the suspension, since there is another variable which you have to tune. But then again, this would be more forgiving if you have a not so rigid turntable stand. Tables without suspension on the otherhand has 1 less variable to tune. But this time, you have to make sure that your turntable stand is very stable and rigid.
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Post by audioslave on Jan 30, 2005 16:22:20 GMT 7
owlryt... good to have someone like you educating us, sir perhaps, that's the reason why Rega TTs are quite popular since they have lesser parts and a very good tonearm aside from having one less variable to take care of.
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Post by m_shoe_maker on Jan 30, 2005 17:30:16 GMT 7
Yes, the Rega is indeed a very popular table. It even takes away another variable which is the adjustment for VTA. To analog enthusiasts, this is the Rega's weak point. The VTA is a very important variable for tuning. This is specially true if you are the type who wants to change / try out different cartridges. Everytime you change your cartridge, one of the things you have to dial-in is the VTA.
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Post by stereophile on Jan 30, 2005 22:25:21 GMT 7
Yes, the Rega is indeed a very popular table. It even takes away another variable which is the adjustment for VTA. To analog enthusiasts, this is the Rega's weak point. The VTA is a very important variable for tuning. This is specially true if you are the type who wants to change / try out different cartridges. Everytime you change your cartridge, one of the things you have to dial-in is the VTA. Yeouch! Tinamaan dinang mga naka GR1. Yes, it is a Rega P2 w/ cosmetic changes. But all is not lost. I agree, that unlike other tonearms w/c allow easy VTA adjustment, for Rega users, you'd have to order a SHIM KIT (many shims of different thicknesses) to change VTA whenever you change carts. Regas are not the ttable for you if you want to change VTA on the fly. If you think about it, you would set the VTA for 180gm LPs and just accept the setting for the 160gms or 200gms LPs. I don't change the VTA on my Technics nor Project ttables for different LP thicknesses(even if it's but an allen screw away). Nakakatamad. I do reset the VTA whenever I change carts for the optimum performance of 180 gm LPs.
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tryaudio
Audionut
"MUSIC IS MY LIFE"
Posts: 53
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Post by tryaudio on Mar 22, 2005 15:59:38 GMT 7
question : where can i acquire (for free) or sadly by pruchase a cart alignment tool? thanks
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Post by kimpao on Mar 22, 2005 16:05:17 GMT 7
question : where can i acquire (for free) or sadly by pruchase a cart alignment tool? thanks talagang labag sa kalooban mo yung purchase. ahehehehehe........... mahal nun db systems eh, tulad nun kay rene, nasa USD 50 ata. But you can get one for free at www.enjoythemusic.com or you can even make one.
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Post by sandawa on Jun 7, 2005 18:36:25 GMT 7
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